Our day started at 01:00.
As always on summit days no one spoke and quietly went about their
business. Without ceremony Ron and Ryan
started their climb at 02:00. I was due
to leave at 03:00 and therefore headed for breakfast when Ron and Ryan left.
After wolfing down my porridge I was itching to get
started. Soon enough we were on our
way. My new group for the summit
attempt contained two people: me and a Croatian climber called Jasna. By 03:30 we were at Pastukhov Rocks. My breathing was severely hampered by me
chest problems but I was determined to keep going.
At 06:00 we were on ‘the traverse’ at 5000m and heading for
the Saddle. The weather was good but
bitterly cold. My camera and camcorder
had frozen meaning I couldn’t take any pictures or videos. This was a shame but I couldn’t take my mind
off the job at hand.
By 08:00 we could turn off our headtorches and had
progressed to 5300m. The biting wind
had eased but my progress was still slow.
My chest was hurting. How could
a minor chest problem take away so much energy?
By 09:30 we had slapped on as much sun cream as possible
(which is always pointless with me as I always burn anyway!) and waited at the
bottom of the summit ridge for Ron and Ryan.
It was always our intention to summit together.
A few minutes after we had stopped we were reunited for the
summit push. It took two hours to reach
the summit as the route was at a 45º angle and we had wlaked into a snow
shower.
Eventually we all made it to the summit at 11:25. As if the weather knew we had arrived at the
summit the clouds cleared and we could see the entire Caucasus range. What an incredible view – and so fitting
after such a hard climb.
The summiteers (me, Ryan and Ron along with a French climber
called Vincent and Jasna) spent 20 minutes on the summit taking pictures and
enjoying the view. Before too long we
had to make the long trip back to The Barrels.
With the midday sun beating down on us it seemed a good idea to get to
The Barrels as soon as possible. To
save time on the descent we sat down on our bottoms and slid down the mountain
– sliding hundreds of feet at a time!
By 15:00 we were all safely back at base camp and were being
congratulated by fellow climbers who were yet to make their summit bids. Even my chest problem was showing some early
signs of improvement!
After an early tea I made a couple of phone calls home
to pass on the news of the successful summit bid. By 19:00 everyone was in bed!
What a day it had been. Yes, I
had chest problems, which significantly hampered the ascent, but reaching the
summit more than made up for it. What
an unforgettable experience today had been!
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