Wednesday 13^th February – Day 15

The alarm went off at 03:45 and Andrzej and I got up ready for a long day.  It was bitterly cold outside and my beard immediately froze to my scarf when heading out for hot water.

By 05:00 I was ready to go until one of my trekking poles decided to fall apart!  After a quick flap I got it back together again and was busy putting on my crampons.  With daylight not until 08:00 the group spent the first three hours traversing the Polish Glacier in the dark.  As the sun came up we were treated to views across the Andes range from just over 6,000m.

Having traversed the Polish Glacier we joined up with the so called ‘normal route’.  At this point Jacek and Katie decided to turn back to camp 2 as Jacek was showing signs of exhaustion and frostbite.

Having said our goodbyes we pressed on up the mountain until at 12:00 we reached the bottom of the infamous Canaleta.  The Canaleta is renowned for ending most summit bids as it is a horrible combination of extremely steep snow and loose scree that stretches four hundred vertical metres to the summit ridge (known as Guanacos Ridge).  True to its reputation the Canaleta was an energy sapping climb with absolutely no room for error.  Once we had climbed the Canaleta we were somewhat dismayed to find that Guanacos Ridge was even steeper!

Eventually at 14:41 local time the nine remaining climbers crawled onto the summit at 6,962m (22,841ft) completely exhausted.  Having nine from twelve summit is unheard of on Aconcagua but we’d managed it!

The views were breathtaking and we could see all the way along the Andes range and over to some Pacific islands.  Something never to be forgotten!  All too soon it was time to start our descent to camp 2.  Just after 15:00 it started to snow so we left the summit and headed back down the Canaleta.  Needless to say this was an exhausting descent and most climbers found it hard to keep on their feet, myself included.  Jan had a very painful looking fall but fortunately a rock prevented him from going any further, and in my shattered state I also took a couple of falls.

Just after 17:30 the group reached camp 2.  We were utterly exhausted but satisfied with the successful summit bid.  Jacek had shown signs of recovery and the general mood at camp 2 was of a job well done.

Owing to our fatigue most people had entered their tents by 18:00 and gone to sleep!  Andrzej and I stayed up for a little while talking about the climb and trying to force rice down our throats in order to make up for the huge calorie deficiency we had suffered from today.

With the long trip back to base camp tomorrow we supped our thermos teas and went to bed at 20:30.  It had been a very long day!

Thursday 14^th February – Day 16

I slept very well and woke up at 08:30.  It had been a bitterly cold night and I had ice inside my sleeping bag.  Andrzej had also slept well and it took us quite some time to get moving.

Breakfast was at 09:30, which was the rice from last night that had been reheated.  Having forced breakfast down we set about packing up our equipment and tent whilst trying not to get too cold in the bracing wind.  It had been -26º at times yesterday and didn’t feel too far off now either!

By the time everything had been packed up at camp 2 and photos had been taken of the summiteers, and our guides, it was 11:30 and important that we got moving.  The start of the journey didn’t go too well for me as ten minutes into the trek I tripped over some scree and went flying.  Fortunately my large backpack took the majority of the impact upon landing.  It soon became apparent that everyone else was just as fatigued with there being plenty of falls and near misses.

Just before 13:00 we had reached camp 1 and everyone was relieved to ditch their heavy backpacks for fifteen minutes.  Sadly the break was only fifteen minutes and we were on our way down the steep scree again.  The general fatigue of the group must have been obvious to climbers that passed us on their ascent to camp 1.  I was finding the homeward stretch to base camp particularly difficult.  Thankfully just as 14:30 passed Plaza Argentina came into view.  Raf had made a short trek up to meet us, which meant a lot to everyone, and ten minutes later we had arrived at base camp and received big hugs from our guides.

We had all made it down relatively safely.  Whilst Jacek was receiving treatment for his frostbite Mark, Raf and I moved my tent right next to the mess tent as a pitch there had become available.  Raf has in quite high spirits but still looked ill.

We were treated to hamburgers for a late lunch which were wolfed down in seconds much to the amazement of the mess tent catering staff.  With lunch inhaled I used the base camp sat phone to call the folks back home and let them know I had reached the summit and that everything was okay.  After the call it was time to organise my equipment for the mules tomorrow as we have a long trek (about 30Kms) to Pampa de Lenas.

Tea was taken at 20:30 with the guides joining us to celebrate their most successful group.  Apparently they’ve never had nine to the summit before and they were very impressed with our team bonding and overall fitness.  The guide produced some champagne so we could toast the success of the expedition.  Although we still have two long treks to go Pepe said we had done the hard part and could relax from here on in.  We were all asleep by 23:00!

Friday 15^th February – Day 17

Andrzej and I slept in until 08:30 and felt better for it.  My fatigue from yesterday had largely passed and Andrzej was feeling much brighter.  We got up, packed our luggage for the mules and collapsed the tent.  Breakfast went down well as everyone knew today would be another long day.  Just after 10:30 we said our goodbyes to the staff at base camp and were on our way.

Initially the journey progressed well but quite soon the wind started in earnest and whipped dust around us.  This wasn’t great for my contact lenses!  Nevertheless we pressed on and were soon treated to some spectacular views of Aconcagua from the Relinchos Valley.  The temperature was rising rapidly and by 12:00 it was over 30º again.

The group kept going and crossed the Relinchos river, and soon followed it by the Vacas delta.  Crossing the river in bare feet was both freezing cold and painful as there were lots of sharp stones waiting to be trodden on.

We reached Casa de Piedra and stopped for our lunch.  An hour passed as the group tried to shelter from the sun and wind.  Just after 15:00 we hit the trail again bound for Pampa de Lenas.  The group travelled at a blistering pace as everyone wanted to reach camp as the heat was tiring.  A total distance of 30Kms was also on people’s minds and the sooner we got moving the sooner it would be completed.

I got into a routine and pace all of my own and soon found myself in the middle of the group with no one within 200 yards of me.  The route seemed to go on and on.  Eventually at 18:30 Pampa de Lenas came into views.  There was absolutely nothing there, which demonstrated perfectly how quiet our route was.

Arriving at camp I was told that the mules wouldn’t be here until 21:00.  This was a blow as I really wanted to change my walking boots and enjoy a fulfilling meal.  Neither would be possible until the mules arrived.  With the whole group having arrived we huddled in an incredibly cramped hut and drank substantial quantities of water to get over today’s dehydration.

The mules eventually arrived and all the tents were set up by 21:30.  Jacek had developed severe blisters on his feet, which Martin and Rob treated as best they could.  Jacek wouldn’t be able to walk on them in this state tomorrow so they had t be syringed.  Jacek’s cries of pain during treatment could be heard by everyone at camp.  Although it clearly hurt it will help him reach the end of the trek tomorrow.

With night falling we settled down to a late tea of pasta and barbequed meat.  Tomorrow would be the final push so after tea it was off to bed for everyone.

Saturday 16^th February – Day 18

Waking up at 08:00 Andrzej and I immediately started to pack up our stuff and tent in order for a quick getaway.  It was a cold night and still chilly whilst having breakfast at 08:45.

The group said its goodbyes to Pampa de Lenas and headed off at speed towards Punte de Vacas and our ride out of the Aconcagua National Park.  The walk was a challenge for everyone due to various blisters and muscle strains but the group kept moving on.  After two hours the sun came out and it became necessary to shed layers.  That said, it was our only rest stop and just after 13:00 Punte de Vacas came into view.  We waited under the trees we had seen for two weeks for the team to regroup to cross the finishing line together.  With everyone ready we made the last few hundred yards together and took the usual group photos.

Hugs and handshakes did the rounds and we gave unwanted equipment to our excellent guides.  I gave Lorena my trekking poles as I knew she was heading to Patagonia in a few days.

We waited until just before 14:00 for our bus to arrive which whisked us away to Puenta del Inca and a wonderful sit down lunch.  What a treat it was, but after two weeks what was more important was a shower in Mendoza!

At 16:00 we had collected our baggage and were on our way towards Mendoza.  In the blistering heat we enjoyed the scenery but as 20:00 Mendoza came into view in all its glory.  The bus stopped and we unloaded our gear.  Trudging into reception it became apparent just how dirty we were.  A football team was just leaving the hotel and gave us very funny glances as they walked by us!  Raf and I checked into our shared room and I had my first shower in two weeks.  What a great feeling that was!

Freshly showered I set out at 20:45 to collect some money for Raf (who had paid the hotel bill) and for Mark who was gathering money for the tips for the guides.  After much fuss and stressing I got the money and just made it in time for our 21:30 meeting with Carlos from Aconcagua Expeditions.  He congratulated us and gave us our prized summit T-shirts.

Afterwards we went out for our summit party with the guides.  A long walk with our blisters was rewarded by a tremendous meal.  We didn’t leave the restaurant until 03:00 and moved on to a sports bar.  At 05:45 Raf and I could take no more and went to our comfortable beds.

Sunday 17^th February – Day 19

Despite getting to bed so late Raf and I both woke up around 09:30.  Sleeping in a bed, even for only three or so hours, recharged our batteries.  After another blissful shower we headed down for breakfast to find that we were the only ones from our group that had made the journey downstairs.  It really is a pleasure being able to pour coffee and cereal rather than having to spend an hour melting snow each morning!

With breakfast finished Raf went out to buy a razor to shave off his beard whilst I went into the hotel basement to catch up on my emails.  This proved to be a time consuming process and nearly two hours passed by before I had finished.

In the afternoon we decided to walk over to the Museo Fundacional, which contained relics from the various ages throughout Mendoza life.  Along the way we walked through the beautiful Parque O’Higgins, named after the same man with a park after his name in Santiago.  The museum itself was quite interesting but could perhaps have contained a little more history on the development of Mendoza.  That said, its surrounding gardens were magnificent and well worth the visit in their own right.

On the way back towards Avenue San Martin someone tried to grab my camera.  Luckily I had sensed it coming and reacted quickly enough to fight off the offender before Raf chased him off with his fists flying!  I didn’t think my camera was obviously on show although I was aware we were being followed for a while.

Anyway, back at Avenue San Martin Raf and I stopped off for a drink of water at one of the street side cafes.  After two hard weeks it was a pleasure to sit and watch the world go by.

The heat of the day was starting to reduce as the afternoon turned to evening.  With some of the group departing we decided to go out for a meal together and met in the hotel lobby at 20:00.  The meal we had was fantastic and the group had a great time.  It really is fortunate the twelve different people have bonded so well over the previous two weeks.  Email addresses have been swapped and I think there will be occasions in the future when some of us will climb together again.  Mark and I spent time discussing the possibility of joining up for Mount Denali in 2009.

Just after midnight everyone was back in the hotel to catch up on their much needed sleep.

Monday 18^th February – Day 20

Raf and I slept brilliantly and didn’t wake up until 09:30.  Our bodies are definitely making the most of these comfortable beds!  After our showers we headed down for breakfast and met up with Mark.  Mark had been up early to see if he could bring forward his flights a little but after queuing up at the LAN Chile Airlines office he was told he would have to stay in Mendoza due to his ticket being non-transferrable.  That said Mendoza isn’t a bad place to be stuck for a few days!

Raf decided that he needed to get a haircut so with him out the way I took the opportunity to sort out my baggage for my flight tomorrow.  It took a while but I eventually managed to get everything organised and was relieved once it was all finished.  Just after fighting with my luggage I made some final email checks and reconfirmed my flights home.  My lift to the airport has been arranged for 16:00 tomorrow meaning that everything is about ready to go.

With the smell of my flight socks airing in the hotel room window Raf and I decided to use the remainder of our time in Mendoza by taking a walking tour of the San Martin park.  The walk to the park itself took us through several beautiful parks on the way.  The San Martin park came into view with its magnificent iron gates.  Despite the heat Raf and I spent a couple of hours enjoying the views.  We eventually pulled up at a lakeside café for a much needed water and shade under a tree.

We could have stayed where we were all day but the time came to move on.  I wanted to send some postcards and Raf wanted to try and sell his ice boots and buy his family gifts before his departure tomorrow morning.  Sending my postcards wasn’t the easiest job I’ve ever undertaken but eventually it was done.  Thankfully the heat was starting to fade as I made my way back to the Hotel Huentala.

Raf and I met up with everyone at 20:00 ready for our last supper.  Although it was a shame such a great adventure was ending everyone was looking forward to going home and seeing their families again.  Our last meal was a fantastic combination of beef, beef and more beef.  Feeling rather full Raf and I waddled to the hotel at around midnight and set our alarm early for tomorrow morning.

Tuesday 19^th February – Day 21

I slept fantastically well and took a little while to wake up and get moving.  By 08:30 Raf and I were both ready to head down for breakfast.  Most people had made it down for breakfast and Lorena turned up to say her goodbyes.  It was great of Lorena to do that and I am sure she will enjoy her climbing trip in Patagonia, which starts tomorrow.

Before long Raf’s lift to the airport had arrived.  He said his goodbyes and left to sart his journey home.  I decided to go back to my hotel room to make a couple of calls to the UK and finalise the last few bits and pieces of packing that needing doing.

Having checked out of the hotel I put my luggage into storage.  I needed some money for my time in New York tomorrow and so went in search of a cash machine.  This proved a difficult task but not as difficult as trying to change my pesos into dollars.  After over an hour, and much queuing, I managed to get my dollars.

Because my stay at Hostel Triskel last month had been such a good one I decided to give the management a summit rock as a way of saying thanks for their hospitality.  The management were very appreciative of the gift and asked me to write a message to them with tippex on the rock.  This I did for them although it wasn’t easy with the piece of triangular sponge they gave me!  I was offered coffee and chatted for quite a while, with translations being done through two climbers from London, who were both called Richard.

The time arrived to say my goodbyes and I headed back to Avenue San Martin for a late lunch.  This also took nearly two hours due to the pace of your average Argentinean waiter.  Not a problem, it was enjoyable sitting there and watching the world go by.  Finally, at 15:30 my lunch was finished and I went for one final wander through Plaza Independencia and Plaza Civico.  Arriving at Hotel Huentala just before 16:00 my driver was already waiting to take me to the airport.

Having checked in the flight to Santiago came and went quickly enough.  With four hours to kill before my New York flight I got spent some enjoyable time with Bart and John who were waiting for their Los Angeles bound flight.  With Liverpool v Inter Milan on television time passed by quickly and before long it was time to board my flight.

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